Despite a well-pedigreed chef and a Vegas-cool interior, ART ends up replicating the same type of fancy, chilly, and ultimately empty hotel dining experience offered by many a glittering new tower. The fantastic, though obstructed, views of the Sound are nearly upstaged by the designed-to-within-an-inch-of-its-life interior, which includes lots of undulating shades of beige and brown splashed with, if you can believe it, ever-changing LED mood lighting that is at times lavender. Service is excellent, so dining here can feel special if you can ignore some of the cheesier design elements.

Creations are whimsical and clever, but sometimes to their own detriment—for example, it doesn’t seem necessary to froth up a simple crab bisque into a “crab cappuccino” and put it in a coffee cup. To appreciate the talent in the kitchen, stick to the simpler, less fussy dishes like game hen with pearl-onion marmalade. During happy hour, prices go down—for instance, you can get a trio of the mini-burgers that were a big happy-hour draw at Cascadia, or an unlimited tapas buffet for less than $20.

The wine list is great any time of day—by-the-glass pours are more interesting that you often find, and the whole program is full of carefully chosen producers and a lot of local favorites. In fact, sunset drinks only might be the best way to appreciate this view—and then, when night falls, you can have dinner at a restaurant with a better value proposition.