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Fearless Critic restaurant review
Casual restaurant

Mon–Sat 11:00am–10:00pm
Sun 1:00pm–9:00pm

Bar Beer, wine
Credit cards Visa, MC
Reservations Accepted

11729 SW Beaverton-Hillsdale Hwy.
Beaverton, OR
(503) 671-9725
Hae Rim
Approachable, safe Korean, but Beaverton can be even better

Maybe by virtue of being lauded by local media and perhaps, too, because of its highly trafficked Beaverton Town Square mall location, this place has more of a mixed white-and-Korean clientele than some of the better, more interesting Korean restaurants in Beaverton. It’s cute and cozy, lined with soothing wood, but nothing about the atmosphere is particularly enticing. It stays cleanly in the inexpensive-ethnic genre.

With no pretenses of stylishness, the draw here is strictly the Korean food, which newcomers find surprisingly accessible, once they accept that most everything is a stew, porridge, soup, cake, or barbecued meat. Pickled and fermented items in the banchan tend to grow on patrons, who love having anything free to munch on while they wait for their orders. It’s a delicious and wonderfully inexpensive cuisine—qualities that are going to generate success for nearly any hole in the wall. But as Korean restaurants go, this one is just somewhere between serviceable and pretty good.

There are some welcome menu highlights: rich samgyub kimchi bokum (stir-fried pork belly with kimchi and tofu), competent preparations of stir-fried octopus and dduk mandoogook (rice-cake-and-dumpling soup), altang (codfish egg in hot-and-spicy stew), and doenjang chigae (soybean-paste soup). The barbecue seems an afterthought—avoid it—but mul nang myun (cold noodles in beef broth) and bibim nang myun (spicy buckwheat noodles) are good. The lunch menu pares the already-short selection down to its most Americanized core.

In general, we sense a little hesitation here to make anything as spicy as you say you want it. Bulgogi is sweet, with little kick to it. Even kimchi is toned down a bit. Hae Rim would be great for Portland Korean, but in Beaverton, you can do better than this.

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