Since Portland’s Green Dragon Bistro and Brewpub opened in 2007, it has become an integral part of the craft beer scene, serving a steadily changing menu of beers on 19 taps. The space is divided into a small restaurant side and a large converted warehouse. In the warehouse, there are two bars—a main bar and a secondary bar that’s used for the pub’s frequent special events. The bar space also hosts a shuffleboard table and several well-maintained pinball machines. Brewing operations have recently commenced, but as of this writing are not yet a regular part of the bar’s offerings.

In 2008, the pub was purchased by the Eugene-based Rogue Brewery (who also operate an eponymous restaurant in Northwest Portland) over the objections of a minority owner; the resulting dust-up in local media and beer-culture blogs is a testament to the niche the Green Dragon had found for itself. A year later, there is little evidence of the transfer. While the menu has shifted from Dutch- and Belgian-themed cuisine to a vaguely Southern approach, the tap list retains its characteristic diversity—on our last visit, only a single tap was pouring Rogue’s fine Old Crustacean barley wine.

The tap selection is international and covers a wider range of styles than most serious beer destinations. Strong ales and barley wines seem to get a significant portion of the list; it’s not uncommon for a third or more of the beers offered to be served in 8-ounce pours instead of pints. Taps change with sufficient frequency that no attempt is made to print the list; a half-dozen chalkboards around the venue list current selections as well as the next ten or so beers “on deck.”

Food is unimaginative, but it’s a passable accompaniment in its secondary role supporting the beer list. Belgian-style fries can’t compare to those offered by the nearby Potato Champion food cart, but make a solid contribution to the selection of $3 happy hour/late night plates.

Visitors should be aware that the Green Dragon regularly hosts beer-culture events and meetings; these events frequently feature rare or new brews and can draw large crowds. While the bar is spacious enough (and often even expanded to the back bar) to accomodate a standing-room-only crowd of drinkers, the staffing levels for table service and food preparation are not always adequate, and food service can be a frustrating and slow affair.