We’ve seen it before: the unmarked nondescript structure that looks like nothing from the outside, but houses a morsel of food so deeply enjoyable that it becomes something of a pilgrimage for its devotees. In this case, it is not the shabu shabu that draws the masses (even at 10pm on a Thursday night), but rather DJK’s barbecue. Specifically, the galbi.

You name the animal, and DJK will provide its flesh for you to sear and char yourself, at the table, to your stomach’s content: beef, pork, chicken, and so on. The smell of crackling fat wafts up through the smoke hoods that sit over each table and hovers over the room like an invisible storm of grilling meat and onions and garlic. Don’t dress too nicely.

Go right for the galbi (short ribs), which are easily some of the best Portland has to offer. Do not miss these, but do try some other variations as well—spicy pork galbi are also quite good. Shabu shabu is good, and it’s always fun to cook with hot pots, but it’s not your best bet here.

As far as the other elements go, banchan aren’t terribly varied or plentiful; soups and stews are not of the transcendent quality that JCD’s or Country Kitchen’s are; and don’t come expecting benevolent service.

What you will get is the satisfaction of cooking something spectacular, even if you can’t cook at all. That’s worth a little abuse. Just knock it back with some soju and Hite.