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Fearless Critic restaurant review
Casual restaurant

Mon–Thu 11:00am–midnight
Fri–Sun 11:00am–2:00am

Bar Beer, wine
Credit cards Visa, MC, AmEx
Reservations Not accepted

4130 SW 117th Ave.
Beaverton, OR
No phone
Country Korean Restaurant
A simpler-than-simple, barely-English-speaking find that serves up soondae without pretense

Country Korean Restaurant is a trip. The service is hilariously indifferent, yet endearing. They mean well, but they’ll watch Korean TV instead of checking on your table. Almost no English is spoken here, and the only décor consists of posters of scantily clad Korean women and a TV which was, on one visit, tuned to an informative medical show about gout and varicose veins. Gilt Club this is not.

What it is, then, is delicious, authentically made Korean food that’s available even at 11pm on a Sunday night (at least we think so—communication isn’t the best here, a condition made worse by there being no phone to speak of).

Two stews are particularly notable. One is soondae guk, a delicious pork broth that develops as it sits on the table (so take your time with it) and is full of kidney, tripe, intestine, and drumroll please...amazing soondae, which is aromatic blood sausage studded with glass noodles. Add all of the chili paste served on the side for the best effect. If you’re not Korean, they’ll try to give you a less spicy version of this stew, so be adamant that you like it spicy. Other soups rock, too, like milky, creamy beef-bone broth (seolleongtang), for example, with dropped egg and stewed, shredded beef strands with a deep, slightly gamy beefiness. It’s absolutely addictive, and a great hangover alternative to menudo and pho, if you’re looking to switch it up.

The banchan (sides that come at the beginning) are terrific: three deeply fermented, stinky kimchis of cabbage, turnip, and cucumber; a lovely egg custard; savory umami-laced seaweed shreds; and more. You can also get the soondae as a plate (sans soup) with condiments, and that’s great, too. Just don’t come for the barbecue—that’s not the focus here and so it isn’t very good. Instead, come to have your soul warmed on chilly days or when you’re getting over a cold. Or when you’ve had quite enough of trendy, engineered dining experiences and serious, professional servers.

After your meal, they’ll hook you up with some homemade rice nectar. As if the super-low bill weren’t kind enough.

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