Portland is lucky to have a variety of Lebanese establishments, some quite good, and some downright terrible. Karam, meaning “generous,” is perhaps the best of them all. Its unexpected, incongruous space is a completely transportive oasis. The authentic, complex food even makes you forget the cheesy faux ruins painted on the walls.

And yes, the portions are as generous as the name suggests, but beware: they seem to take it a bit personally if you don’t take all your leftovers home. And if you’re a novice to Middle Eastern cuisine, don’t worry, the waitstaff is more than happy to help you through the long menu and give suggestions.

Vegetarians will be at home in any Lebanese restaurant. Veggie mezza are a great way to start, regardless of your experience level. You get small plates of tabbouleh; a balanced hummus with just enough lemon and garlic; moist, delicate grape leaves; smoky baba ghanoush; and the best falafel in town, with a crunchy crust and a terrific spiced filling that holds its shape. For something a bit more Mediterranean, try batenjan mekle—thin, grilled slices of eggplant in olive oil and lemon juice topped with garlic, parsley, and feta, served with tahini. Kibbeh nayee is an interesting mix of bulghur wheat, onions, garlic, and tomatoes, but it’s sort of mealy—not for everyone.

There are also plenty of meat options available. Meat masawat includes everything in the veggie mezze, plus moist, spicy kofta kebab, as well as chicken and lamb shawarmas. We can’t decide which kibbeh we like better: the one filled with beef, onions, and pine nuts, or the version with grilled ground beef, onions, spices, homemade yogurt, mint, and garlic. Goat is spectacular, slowly simmered to deep tenderness. Ask for it “bil tfeen” (cooked in red wine), topped with garlic, vinegar, and pine nuts, and served with cracked bulgur wheat, chickpeas, and potatoes. If you’ve never had goat before, you’ll fall in love with it here.

Karam has a full bar with some interesting choices, like a cocktail made with arak, an anisey liquor distilled from sundry-palm sap and dates. You’ll want to sip this one slowly. Rose syrup is common in desserts and drinks here, like fun sodas also flavored with jallab (a date-molasses syrup), tamarind, or mulberry. Turkish coffee is sumptuous and muddy, and an excellent way to finish this wonderful tour of Lebanese delights.