Arabian Breeze: the name conjures up romantic images of desert oases scented with turmeric. This is more like staging Disney’s Aladdin in a converted basement: low ceilings, lots of bright colors, and positively goofy décor. The center pillars sandwich a long community table, and the fruity smell of smoke from the hookahs upstairs wafts by now and then. Even the long menu is entertaining, with enticing descriptions and pictures of both the usual Lebanese fare and some less common dishes.

Service is friendly but clumsy. Appetizers are routinely delivered with main courses, and water glasses might sit empty for long, parched periods. The cutlery is the cheap, malleable stuff you find in cafeterias.

You do get a lot of food for your money, though. Saj (similar to pita bread) is made fresh and hot off the griddle, draped over a holder on your table. Go ahead and wolf it down—this is something the staff will refill hastily. Kofta is very mild; the meat is juicy, though not particularly lamby. The chicken kebab, on the other hand, is irresistible: two large skewers of moist, tender chicken are served with peppers and onions over a mound of rice and a side of toom (traditional yogurt cheese in a garlic purée). This alone is worth coming back for.

Unfortunately, everything else ranges from average to pathetic. Freekah—smoked, cracked green wheat that is imported from Damascus and cooked with chicken, pine nuts, herbs, and spices—is unique and satisfying, but doesn’t blow our skirts up. Salads are just pathetic, with inadequate vegetables, drowned in garlicky dressing. Labna, a thick, fresh yogurt cheese with mint, thyme, and olive oil, comes on a huge plate surrounded by industrial-tasting cucumber and tomato slices; at least you get a lot of it, if that’s a good thing. There are several types of stuffed and fried sambousik (traditional turnovers), but these can be heavy, dripping with oil and quickly turning soggy. At best, they tend to be unspiced and boring. Falafel isn’t even close to the best around.

If the dishes were nearly as good as their descriptions, we could forgive all other gripes about this place. Certainly, this is a lot of food for the money, and the hookah scent is great. But culinarily, the name remains the most transportive part of the meal.