Like most good non-European eateries, Aladdin’s Café is not about the ambience. Not that there’s anything wrong with it; the interior is bright, with multi-colored walls showcasing interesting Middle Eastern and Egyptian artwork. It’s just that it’s mostly utilitarian, its purpose being to serve food—which it does very well. However, if you can swing it, the small patio area out front with about six tables is a nice place to hang out on a warm evening.

The Lebanese food served here is of the quotidian street-food variety, and priced so reasonably that it’s easy to get carried away and order more than you can eat. A very crisp falafel ball with a molten interior snaps as you bite into it. Baba ghanoush is loaded with good eggplant flavor, balanced by tahini and lemon, but isn’t as smoky as it could be. Hummus is very smooth and balanced—a bit more processed-tasting than some—but with excellent flavors. Fattoush comes with small chips of toasted pita bread that give it a good crunch, and is finished with sumac, garlic, olive oil, and lemon juice. The tomatoes tend to taste rather industrial, but with good spices. Tabbouleh is nicely spiced and citric, getting a chewy texture from bulgur. But most addictive is safeeha (a Lebanese version of pizza), baked crispy with ground beef, tomatoes, and onions on top—this is also among the cheapest dishes in Portland.

What really sets Aladdin apart is its bright, lively tahini, which integrates into many other dishes in judicious quantities, rather than drenching. We also love the pita bread, which is baked fresh with every order, turning from a round little ball of dough to a wonderfully hot, delicately crispy brown disc that’s rushed to your table right out of the oven. The pitas aren’t too thick and come nicely browned, making a great foundation for some sandwiches, like lamb shawarma and kofta, both of which are textural wonders redolent of cumin.

This is not a destination restaurant, but it can be quite good. If you are anywhere near the neighborhood or are into Lebanese food, you need to put it on your list.