Vinoteca Poscol performs several roles admirably and convincingly. (No wonder, given that the venerable powers behind Da Marco and Dolce Vita are responsible for it.) The room is simple and classic, and natural light pours in through the front windows. Really, the most dramatic decoration is a leg of prosciutto, poised on a gleaming slicer, awaiting another order.

We find this place ideal for dates: it’s romantic, with relaxed yet knowledgeable service. And its desserts—often among the best in town—are nothing short of aphrodisiac. What’s more, you can control the amount of food you order (and money you spend), either by ordering the always-wonderful specials on the chalkboard, or a selection of the usual small plates. Either way, you’ll hardly eat anything more sensually, truly Italian: grilled whole sardines, braised cardoons, garlicky bagna cauda. Some things, like fried spaghetti, are utterly enjoyable for their novelty. But don’t miss Vinoteca’s cured meats: veal tongue, porchetta di testa, pork cheek, and so on. If it’s got a face, you can probably eat it here, and it will be delicious.

The spectacularly well-priced list of smaller-production Italian wines, often using rare and indigenous varietals from the North, encourages better drinking than you might otherwise afford—and if you have no problem dropping a bill or more, there are several bottles here that will change your life.