Paulie’s quaint flagship in the ’Trose wins loyal followers with its artsy feel and sweet, relaxed service. Large windows face the street, while a low ceiling and low noise level lends an intimacy. There’s a good selection of Italian wine, which best complements the easy and recognizable Italian-American fare here, and for only $10 you can bring something of your own.

Of course, one of the first things you’ll notice is a bakery case of artful and cheap cookies, of which the raspberry sandwich is terrific (the sugar cookies are pretty, but not as good). And we’re happy to report that the food—which was never bad—is improving quite a bit. Weekly specials are some of the best orders here: eggplant parmesan is good, but avoid anything sounding suspiciously American-influenced, like a bland spinach pasta with prosciutto and peas. Osso buco is marrowy and tender, and pizzas are passable. Sandwiches are still the favorite here, and the shrimp BLT, while it has its detractors (who say it’s briny and messy), is lauded by many—its delicious bun helps. In fact, all of Paulie’s breads are delicious; also, fries are crisp and taste clean, while potato salad is fresh and flavorful. To further prove that the details are everything, Paulie’s has commissioned the Greenway Coffee geniuses to train its baristas. Now that’s community service.