Tampico Seafood transports us south of the border, from the saltine crackers that come with the mediocre, fruit-punchy, but enjoyable seafood cocktails to the ice-cold bottles of Sol. Very little is put into the décor; bright fluorescent lighting dominates, and the walls are dotted with random Mexican memorabilia, from soccer posters to beer advertisements. Christmas lights adorn the exterior, and as you walk in, you pass a glass case from which they’re selling fish.

Seafood, clearly, is the way to go here; camarones al ajillo—shrimp sautéed in lots of garlic and even more butter—are just as they should be, cooked not a second too long. Use the irresistible buttered-and-griddled bread that comes with it to sop up the garlicky sauce. Order whole fish grilled; its frying is just a bit too heavy-handed. When grilled, its skin gets wonderfully crispy, with moist and tasty meat. The juices will make the other side of the fish’s skin soggy, but they also flavor the onions underneath. Perhaps one of the most interesting things about Tampico is the Chinese fried rice. Its origins baffle us, but it actually hits the spot, and it makes sense: fried rice pairs nicely with fish. Margaritas tend to be weak, so order a floater and sip slowly while waiting the 20 minutes for your fish to grill.