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–Leslie Brenner,
Dallas Morning News
Fearless Critic restaurant review
Houston
Food
Feel
Price
4.1
4.5
$15
American
Counter service

Hours
Daily 7:00am–11:00pm

Features Kid-friendly, outdoor dining, veg-friendly, Wi-Fi
Bar Beer, wine
Credit cards Visa, MC, AmEx

www.cafe-express.com

Upper Kirby
3200 Kirby Dr.
Houston, TX
(713) 522-3994

River Oaks
1422 W. Gray St.
Houston, TX
(713) 522-3100

Hermann Park
5601 Main St.
Houston, TX
(713) 639-7370

Café Express
If this is what the American restaurant has become, there’s a dark age ahead

This is America! Free our imprisoned restaurant customers from the shackles of the paternalistic chef—we’re grown-ups now! Why should we have to subject ourselves to those ugly meats that actually look like they came from animals? Why should we put up with bitterness, challenging textures, unusual spices, or foreign foods? Why should we ever have to try anything raw, anything fatty, anything new? Free us from the shackles of a thousand years of culinary tradition, and deliver us to a brave new culinary world where the evils of all strong flavors have been eradicated, where the guilt of feeling like you’re actually consuming animals has vanished along with their skins and bones. Take us to the promised land of milk and honey mustard, of grilled-chicken-breast Caesar, the fillet of salmon cooked to white, the penne pasta with sautéed spinach and mushrooms and turkey sausage, the “Grilled Chicken & Pasta Pesto Deli,” the mushroom-and-spinach turkey burger. Take us to Café Express!

Put it all on LCD monitors above the counter, and go from customer straight to computer. Don’t let servers offer their pesky suggestions and personal touch! Don’t let them make us feel that they know more about wine than we do! Let us choose, ourselves, from the house red or house white!

This is what the famous Del Grande, owner of Restaurant RDG, sees as our culinary future?