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Fearless Critic restaurant review
American, British

Thu–Sat 11:30am–1:00am
Mon–Wed 11:30am–11:00pm
Sun 11:30am–10:00pm

Features Date-friendly, outdoor dining, Wi-Fi
Bar Beer, wine, liquor
Credit cards Visa, MC, AmEx


Upper Kirby
2316 S. Shepherd Dr.
Houston, TX
(713) 782-3030
Red Lion
The standard British-style pub made unique with its above-average food

As the old joke goes, in Hell the policemen are German, the mechanics are French, and the cooks are English. But unlike there (and unlike at our other favorite British-style pub, Black Labrador), the British fare here is quite good. Check the chalkboards for weekly specials, like Wednesday’s $18 curry and a pint. Those British curries are decent, if you like the style, which is a bit rich and spice-poor. Burgers are oversized, and you can opt for delectable roasted Brussels sprouts instead of fries; steaks are cooked expertly. Fish and chips have come pretty soggy, but the homemade malt vinegar is kickin’. For dessert, there’s a show-stopping bread pudding. Avoid anything far beyond the realm of the crown: Thai and Mexican-influenced dishes are disastrous.

This is an ideal place to stop by after work for the outstanding beer selection, both on draft and in bottle; there’s also a pretty good single-malt Scotch selection. You can also watch a game on the telly without the oversexed, fratty feeling of other pub-style bars. Large, wooden doors lead into a dimly lit dining room with small lamps on each table. There’s a fire burning away in a hearth at the end of the dining room, and the patio’s full of chatty people and their dogs. Hey, if this is Hell, sign us up.

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