You can’t miss Garson; there’s a huge sign out front with the name of the place in big caps—and plenty of parking, for a change. The atmosphere, though white-tableclothed, is inviting and comfortable with a waitstaff that’s eager to help you find something exciting for your palate, which shouldn’t be a problem here. Flatbread with feta, basil, and radishes start your meal, which should definitely include a stew of some sort. These are treasure troves of meat, lentils, greens, and kidney beans, along with a few more unexpected treats that we’ll leave you to discover for yourself. Braised lamb shank is tender, with a pleasant gaminess accented by cinnamon and coriander; don’t forget to dig out the bone marrow—it’s the best part. Pan-fried eggplant atop one stew is among the most stirring flavors in town. As for non-stewed meats, ground beef kebabs fare better than chicken, which can be dry. We also like the various versions of juicy ribeye with vegetables.

The succinct wine list is perfunctory and not terribly exciting; a modest $8-10 corkage fee invites some experimentation—this is a cuisine that makes magic with a wide range of wines. Come on a weekend night for some belly shakin’.