Fadi’s must be responsible for most Houstinites’ introduction to Middle Eastern food, considering the law of averages (there are three around town). True, they each appear to have been decorated from a restaurant catalog’s section on “Middle Eastern:” generic and vaguely regional art hangs on warmly painted walls, and interesting, but wholly inauthentic lighting fixtures dangle from the ceiling. Yet it feels familial, despite the cafeteria-style tray service.

As ever, start with an acidic, refreshing cold salad. Tabbouleh and dolmade have a great balance, but fattoush needs a heavy salting. While chicken tends to be dry and bland, kebabs are always fresh and incredibly well seasoned. Whenever succulent braised lamb shank’s on the buffet, snatch it up fast. Avoid fish, whose flavors are muted by accoutrements like subpar tomatoes. Braised vegetables in a curry sauce are a great vegetarian option, as is smoky baba ghanoush. The lunch crowd can pack it in, so beware on weekdays. Dinner and weekends are a better option; they’re just crowded enough to ensure that food doesn’t sit on the buffet table too long.

The fresh juices offered at the end of the buffet are a nice touch. The baklava’s a bit too sweet, but date cookies are an ideal marriage between pastry and fruit. Snag an extra one for the ride home—or better yet, an extra shank.