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Fearless Critic restaurant review
Latin American
Casual restaurant

Daily 10:00am–9:00pm

Bar Beer
Credit cards Visa, MC
Reservations Not accepted

Hillcroft Area
5902 Renwick Dr.
Houston, TX
(713) 661-4334

Southwest Houston
6817 Bissonnet St.
Houston, TX
(713) 270-5030

North Houston
13235 Veterans Memorial Dr.
Houston, TX
(281) 587-2800
El Pupusodromo
A salvadoreño street food to replace your puffy taco obsession

There are a few tiny El Pupusodromos dotting the cityscape, our favorite of these inhabiting a vintage Taco Bell. In this Salvadoran-flag-blue space, for some reason, we feel the masa’s griddled just a little more softly, the flavors just a bit more vivid. The service is certainly warm and friendly wherever you go, although you will benefit from a basic command of Spanish. Each table has its own jar of curtido, the essential pickled cabbage condiment, although this one could stand to be a bit more acidic. Fresh juices like maracuyá (passion fruit) and pineapple contribute a sense of freshness to a soda-and-caffeine society. The natural juices also aid in digestion. Some Central American beers in can aren’t a bad choice, either.

Salvadoran tamales are fluffier and lighter than their Mexican cousins, and here, tamales de elote are airy and corn-sweet, served with thick cream that really kicks your taste buds into overdrive. The same can be said for fried plantains with that crema; get it with some refried beans, and you’ve got a delicious Salvadoran breakfast. Pupusas are the star of the show, though, especially the classic revueltas (stuffed with bean, cheese, and chicharrones). They’re not as greasy as other versions, yet they’re still lardy-flavorful. Fortunately, there’s probably one of these near you.

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