This once-sagging grande dame had become bedraggled by uneven execution and odd, outdated culinary fascinations. And when we say it had taken on the mothball smell of dowdy age, well…we mean that literally. But Jeffrey’s has cast off its musty furs (and industrial gray carpeting), and undergone an extreme makeover of the rarest and unlikeliest sort: no freakish collagen swelling (relentless PR chest-thumping comes to mind), no unrecognizable surgeries (local superstar commercial designers), and no cartoonish implants (a celebrity chef with little daily control). Of course, the lack of alarms and bulldozers also means the single most exciting restaurant to open in Austin in ages went completely ignored by the local press.

It is difficult to overstate the resurrection that has occurred here. At the surface level, subtle updates like monolithic grayscale artwork and a pebble-dotted concrete floor keep Jeffrey’s labyrinth of low-ceilinged rooms homey, yet composed. But it is on the menu where the more important changes have occurred. Well, almost. Dubya’s favorite crispy oysters still appease the loyalists, and are delicious with their sweet and spicy habanero aïoli and expertly fried yuca chips; the excellent “Oysters Octavia,” on the other hand, represent the new regime’s talent for pork, incorporating house-cured bacon and tangy tomato vinaigrette. Even better among small plates are boneless short ribs with a magically crisp shell and yielding inside; a fresh-horseradish cream enlivens the rich jus reduction. Gnocchi, served with local winter greens peppered with arbol chile flakes, gently float in a parmesan broth worth drinking by itself.

Jeffrey’s has become The Pig Whisperer; the kitchen understands the animal almost mystically. In other words, if it’s got pork in it, order it. Crispy pork shank is fork tender with a light caramelized crust outside; sea scallops, a tired menu item in most cases, are enlivened by a bit of sweet, char-kissed pork belly. Hill Country quail, often featured, is always a standout. The kitchen deftly combines classic French and Southwestern flavors: from grenobloise to jalapeño roulade, flourishes are restrained and appropriate to the dish. Don’t overlook the humble burger—whose smallish size we appreciate—teeming with flavor from Texas’s Veldhuizen “Redneck Cheddar” and house-cured bacon.

This is still one of the top wine programs in the city, thorough but uncompromising. Everyone from collectors to points chasers to natural wine geeks are going find great choices at every price. We previously called for something closer to perfection for the high bill of sale. We never dreamed we’d get it.

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