If the barbecued duck here isn’t the closest thing to what you’d find in Hong Kong, it’s at the very least about the closest thing to the best Chinese fast-food joints of British Columbia—a comparable compliment.

This is the type of tiny hole in the wall where, after you order your whole duck (or half or quarter portions), you can watch as the chef unhooks a bird from the window display and chops it up.

If you bother to read the white boards after ordering the duck, the best dishes are the poached free-range chicken (be sure to specify free-range, as there two types of chicken) with spicy ginger-scallion oil and the barbecued roast pork belly.

The couple that runs Ton Kiang is very sweet, and will even steer you toward the better offerings of the day so that you get something a little more nuanced than a pound of pork belly.