The lamb slider craze has to end eventually, at which time this easily mishandled meat will go back into the faithful hands of places like Vios. Both the lamb souvlaki and the lamb burger are excellent. You’ll also find all the undiluted classics here: great Greek salads, grilled meats, a thorough selection of dips and tapenades like taramosalata (salmon caviar spread), and more elaborate braised meat mains, market fish specials, and so on. The to-go menu is extensive, and you can order hummus or tzatziki by the pound. The branch at Third Place Books in Ravenna serves a weekend brunch that is a mix of standards (waffles, eggs and bacon on a baguette) and Modern, vaguely Med-inspired dishes (harissa pork hash; lemon-ricotta pancakes).

The cafés are pretty basic, with sturdy wooden tables and cheerful but unobtrusive colors, but they manage that nice neighborhood feel—the one where being surrounded by families is endearing. This is thanks in part to each café having a designated, well-cordoned-off play area for kids.

Vios can easily become a regular spot to duck in for a bite and a beer or glass of wine. Mad props for the all-Greek wine list—it’s vast by the Greek-wine standards of the Pacific Northwest, and its prices are eminently reasonable (few bottles over $40 and many interesting choices hovering around $30). The world’s oldest wine region deserves this kind of respect.