There aren’t many places that focus on Malaysian food, and this expanding Pacific Northwest chain is the real deal. The curries are delicious, and the menu has great variety that faithfully surveys the multitude of influences present in the cuisine, from sweet and spicy Chinese pork chops and black pepper crab to belachan string beans and prawns to mango tofu salad. A favorite appetizer is the roti canai, a fluffy bread served with potato.

Recent renovations have made the place a bit more attractive by adding some carved woodwork and tastefully ornate Malaysian knickknacks, but they’ve also made it more generic. The open kitchen that used to dominate the front of the house is gone, so you no longer get the privilege of watching “Auntie” making your roti canai. Gone, too, is one of the most exotic and exciting dishes: whole baby squid (they tell us they still serve them, but they never seem to have them available); squid “steaks” are now the boring, tentacle-less alternative. On a few recent visits, key ingredients were missing from several dishes, turning them one-dimensional, and the curry dipping sauce for roti canai has come out surprisingly granular.

Malay is still better than the average I.D. joint, but compared to what it once was, it’s starting to go downhill. We hope the unevenness is temporary.