Surprising non-greasy fried chicken with awesomely crispy skin concealing moist hunks of meat. That’s it, that’s what Ezell’s does. Is it the only place in town to sate the craving for a fried drumstick? Not anymore. But Ezell’s is an institution: not a school day goes by when a line of Garfield High students doesn’t form at lunch time. Not a drizzly evening goes by without some Seattleite driving four neighborhoods from home to pick up a 24-piece. And Oprah was here.

Chicken comes light or dark, regular or spicy. Spicy is more of a short burst of cayenne and paprika than a full-mouth inferno, so be sure to grab some containers of Ezell’s excellent hot sauce. As for sides, forgo the mashed potatoes and gravy and stick to the rolls and cole slaw. The latter is a nice complement to the salty chicken, and the former are spectacular. For anyone who finds wings and thighs too pedestrian, Ezell’s offers fried gizzards and/or livers by the pound—dipped in hot sauce, they’re almost better than the rest of the chicken, and a lot cheaper, too.

This is definitely a spot for take-out. There’s no place to comfortably enjoy your chicken unless you want to sit on the curb by the bus stop—most people eat in their cars.