There isn’t a bar in Seattle that can top Brouwer’s for beer. The bottled beer list is longer than a Northern European winter, and the on-tap list is longer than many restaurants’ wine lists. Belgium and the Pacific Northwest are the most thoroughly represented, and we love how thoughtful the Northwest selection is—half a dozen Hair of the Dogs and not a Red Hook in sight. And as if all that weren’t enough to wet your whistle, there’s a damned fine list of single-malt whiskies.

The menu is a quick survey of some of the world’s best drinking food: pommes frites from Belgium (chipotle sauce is the best choice), a good croque monsieur from France, sausages in the German and Polish traditions, and a lamb burger with a mélange of incongruous toppings (a shout-out to overambitious 1990s “PacNW” cuisine, perhaps). There are lighter plates, too, like some tasty salads, but here’s where we remind you of the higher alcohol content of Belgian beer—for Pete’s sake, lay a better foundation than seasonal vegetarian risotto.

Brouwer’s is appropriately dark and foreboding inside, but it’s just a little too mod to capture the “mead-swilling pleasure palace” vibe we hoped for. Be forewarned: it’s a low-key spot for lunch and not too obnoxious at happy hour, but after 8pm it turns into a frat party.