Don’t come here looking for sushi—this is an exciting array of Japanese bar/street food: beef tongues and tofu and fish cakes (oh my!). Izakaya is all the rage in the Pacific Northwest, and this humble Beaverton spot, hidden in a strip shopping center, is perhaps the foremost practitioner of the art in Oregon.

It’s tiny and green, with one open kitchen, a few bar seats, and just a few more tables. Get there early; by opening time at 6pm, there are already people waiting for a seat, and it stays packed (mostly with Japanese people) until closing. Coming as a large group (with reservations) works great, too.

Just don’t bring anyone picky or with obnoxious food prejudices. Yuzu serves up an amazing bowl of stewed pig intestines; wonderful braised pork belly; breaded and fried kobe katsu (like a deep-fried hamburger, really); and a codfish liver mousse that’s sultry, salty, and wonderful. Even edamame are way above average, with more soybean flavor than salt. For best results, stick to fatty pork and innards, although the kitchen does a nice job with deep-fried fish as well. Expect to order about three or four small plates per person.

Ramen preps are very good, although the noodles are not handmade. It’s all about the broth, which is deeply meaty and lively with ginger. Skewered meats have a great char and fat marbling. The sake selection is wide, if lacking a bit on the lower end. There are some treasures in here, though. There are only two draft beers (yes, one is Sapporo), but we doubt anyone much minds.

Whether you’re in Beaverton or not, Yuzu is worth the trip—remember to reserve in advance, or you’ll be sitting at the bar. Just please don’t call it “Japanese tapas.” We have to stop the madness somewhere.