Izakaya is becoming all the rage in Portland, much to our glee. Not only do we have the authentically divey bars like Tanuki and the accessible, clean places like Syun in Hillsboro, but now there is a smart, modern, upscale version. Where those other two serve inarguably delicious and transportive dishes that call to mind foggy stumbles at midnight through Okinawan streets, Biwa answers Portland’s yearning for all the comfort foods from its latitudinal neighbor, noodles, kimchi, yaki, and all.

Although it’s sunk into the basement of an old church in a less-heeled neighborhood, with little signage and treacherous steps, Biwa is no dive. It’s a cozy but trendy buzzfest, even on a Monday night. Clean lines, an open kitchen, and high wooden booths create an upscale Japanese feel, but unlike at most sushi joints, the lighting is dim and warm. Votives on tables glow warmly in the evening, making this an ideal hideout from the world above.

Izakaya consists of small plates, hot and cold—essentially, Japanese pub grub, meant to be enjoyed with sake. And sake here is the thing. These are, for the most part, well chosen, with a wide range of body, flavor, prefecture, and price points. The menu will provide detailed descriptions, and servers often know their stuff enough to help novices navigate their choices. Cocktails are not worth missing the sake for. If rice wine isn’t your thing, the succinct grape wine selection here is equally complementary to the food.

The best work of this kitchen, by far, is the array of noodle dishes. Udon wheat noodles are hand cut and thick, toothsome, and hearty; ramen noodles in meat-based broths are fantastically nourishing. Several different add-ons are available, as well, like hard-boiled egg, seaweed, and pork. Deep-fried daikon-radish kimchi is like a brilliant Korean version of Southern fried pickles. Tofu made by neighboring soy-star Ota is silky, firm, and nutty, and aged miso made by Soy Beam makes for an umami-bomb of a soup.

But consistent problems with oversalting, along with mishandled proteins, bring much of Biwa’s menu down. Charcoal-grilled yakitori of chicken thigh, hanger steak, and lamb are competent, but gizzard has come undercooked and spongy-tough. Yukke (“Korean beef tartare”) with a quail egg is chewy and salted to oblivion; vinegar-pickled mackerel is too sweet, but not as sweet as the miso scallop, which might as well be dessert. It’s the worst izakaya dish in the entire Portland area, curable only by another bottle of dry sake.