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Fearless Critic restaurant review
Portland
Food
Feel
Price
7.9
7.5
$20
Seafood
Counter service

Hours
Sun–Thu 11:30am–10:00pm
Fri–Sat 11:30am–11:00pm

Features Kid-friendly, outdoor dining
Bar Beer, wine, liquor
Credit cards Visa, MC, AmEx

Alberta Arts District
2525 NE Alberta St.
Portland, OR
(503) 808-9600
Original Halibut’s
Fish and chips taken to the max

This small restaurant is made up of a smaller room with maybe seven tables under sky-blue walls and ceiling fans, and a second, larger space next door. It’s kitschy and comfortable. On nice days, there are tables out front where you can watch Alberta traffic go by. Everything is served in paper cups or red-checked paper in baskets, which totally reminds us of Monterey’s Fisherman’s Wharf. Ah, nostalgia!

A fish of the day (often rock cod) always graces the menu, as well as giant tiger prawns, Alaskan halibut, Alaskan Salmon, Southern catfish, and Alaskan true cod. Everything comes in two portion sizes with thick, medium-crisp fries. In a move that’s above and beyond the call of duty, lobster tails with sweet potato fries are also available, as are Dungeness crab cakes.

A canola-corn oil blend gives the lightly coated fish a crunchy crust with a remarkably moist flesh. The juice runs down your chin as you bite into it. Tartar sauce is simple and mellow, complementing rather then competing with the fish. Malt vinegar gives it that little extra zing, but isn’t totally required, as it is at other blander fish-and-chips places. A smaller portion here will satisfy a lunch urge, but for dinner, go larger.

If you’re craving something less fried, homemade clam chowder is really good (worth the highish price), full of chunks of potato and plump clams, and creamy. A nice bacon flavor rounds it out. You can get a combo with this soup and a bay or giant prawn cocktail with some corn on the cob and even a slice of zingy key lime pie.

The few beers on tap are appropriate, if unimaginative: an IPA, a Pabst, a wheat beer, and Anchor Steam. But how about some nice British bitters and ales? Why not pour something British to pair with such a great British contribution to the culinary world?