It’s true that t’afia is among the most fanatical of the locavore restaurants; this doesn’t necessarily translate to excellent execution, despite being the brainchild of one of the city’s most acclaimed chefs. It’s a reliable and pleasing experience if you stick to small plates and drinks on the lovely patio. Creole cocktails made with ratafia (fortified wine infused with seasonal fruits, vegetables, and and/or herbs)—the restaurant’s namesake—are often refreshingly tart, and the wine list showcases small producers from around the world whose wines are both affordable and loaded with personality. Even the Texas wines are carefully selected.

Irreproachable, too, is the flowing Midtown space, an object lesson in resourceful postindustrial-chic-meets-IKEA design. The concept of free, tasty, all-you-can-eat snacks during happy hour—have a drink, and they’re all yours—is glorious. Tasting menus are relentlessly probing, sensationally seasonal, fearlessly local, reasonably priced. At their best, the creations can materialize miracles in your mouth, like medjool dates stuffed with chorizo and wrapped in bacon; or a sashimi-and-tempura roll, which is surprisingly accomplished in its lightness and heat. White anchovies are served simply, with plump, tart caper berries. But with larger dishes, you’re more exposed to rampant seasoning issues and meats that tend to come overcooked to flavorlessness. Just keep it small and simple, and you’ll do fine.