“What the Fearless Critic books and apps have that UrbanSpoon and Yelp don’t is a complete lack of bullshit.”
“I’ve spent years driving around with Zagat...but I think I’ll replace it with this Fearless Critic guide.”
–Leslie Brenner,
Dallas Morning News
Fearless Critic restaurant review
Houston
Food
Feel
Price
8.3
8.5
$70
Modern
Upmarket restaurant

Hours
Mon–Fri 11:30am–2:00pm
Mon–Fri 5:30pm–10:00pm
Sat 5:30pm–10:00pm
Sun 11:00am–3:00pm
Sun 5:30pm–10:00pm

Features Date-friendly, good wines, outdoor dining
Bar Beer, wine, liquor
Credit cards Visa, MC, AmEx
Reservations Accepted

www.mockingbirdbistro.com

River Oaks
1985 Welch St.
Houston, TX
(713) 533-0200
Mockingbird Bistro
A great deal and some very good meals (better, if you like truffle oil)

Mockingbird Bistro still rocks the “country-French-meets-American-market” ethos that won it acclaim in the early ’00s. Since then, the fickle young crowd has moved on, but the kitchen tries to re-energize, and often produces some of the best deals in the city. Its bar menu has a wealth of these, like a $9 juicy Kobe burger with sharp Stilton and delicious bacon-onion marmalade. Kobe short ribs are also terrific, braised to tender with a tangy tomato polenta and good asparagus. Fish is always strong, like impeccably fresh rainbow trout, or maple-basted salmon that’s so restrained that it surpasses expectations. But lately we’ve detected beleaguered truffle oil smells wafting up from several dishes. Was this the result of a comment card left by someone wearing a “fun” embroidered cat vest? Come on.

The modern interior has moments of Old-World class: large, medieval-looking chandeliers lording over tables of crisp white linens, and sill-to-ceiling windows bring an airiness to the red brick walls and exposed ceiling pipes. The unpretentious and homey feeling is buffeted with terrifically low mark-ups at the bar ($10 for 10-year Ardbeg? Here?). There’s a good showing of local and imported beers, and cocktails are made from small-batch spirits. The broadly appealing wine list is sometimes curious (since when is California Cabernet Franc an “Exciting Alternative”?). But mostly, the bistro sings right on key.

Be the first to leave a comment…