Despite its name, Catalan isn’t going strictly for Spanish cuisine. In fact, there’s an array of pan-global street foods (Gulf shrimp pad Thai; oxtail spring rolls; and steamed pork buns) that have often been delicious and surprising. If you aren’t already a fan (you must be new), the exceedingly generous happy hour is an ideal way to sample the kitchen’s innovation and expertise. One could come just for the spectacular wine list, which reads like a work of creative literature, and not only demonstrates a welcome focus on lesser-known regions, but also marks up just a smidge over retail.

The menu of chefs’ favorites—pig fat, duck fat, eggs, and innards—is appealing and consistently well executed; we swear it’s even improved, somehow. Creamy roasted bone marrow smeared on good crostini is exquisite with a pinch of Maldon sea salt and pickled red onion. The lauded foie gras “bon bons” are unbelievably rich and balanced by a seasonally changing homemade jelly. Even as we suffer from pork-belly fatigue, we can’t abstain from Catalan’s cubes of the stuff, sweetly and judiciously crusted with cane syrup. Large plates are only slightly less ecstasy-inducing, but Sunday-night themed family dinners are delicious fun.

Come early to snag a good seat, and prepare for noise, crowds, and somewhat shaky service. Despite all that, this is perhaps our most-revisited upmarket restaurant.