Houston’s best purveyor of Bosnian cuisine is also its rare purveyor of an always-exciting menu of consistently delicious and spectacularly cheap dishes. The basis of a meal here is homemade lepinje, a doughy bread that makes excellent cevapi (sandwiches) with beef-and-lamb sausages. It’s only one of many house-made wonders that define this devoted, disciplined, diminutive kitchen, which serves a stark, but somehow cozy room. The warm, genuine staff imports from Chicago such rarities as a Bosnian version of feta, which has a more sour, fermented flavor than the standard Greek stuff. There’s also some of the deepest-flavored “pastrami” we’ve ever tasted, a cured beef cut that plays off like Italy’s air-dried bresaola, only smokier. Don’t miss the expertly fried cheese, homemade in the halloumi style and delicately battered. We’ve developed a curious obsession with its texture—which, surprisingly, becomes more irresistible as it cools off and congeals, revealing more of its sexy squeak.

Don’t waste room on American familiars like chicken Caesar salad, and dry and relatively flavorless shish kebabs. But why would you, with fried anchovies and their delightfully forward marine flavor; comforting sarma (stuffed cabbage in a flavorful broth); and soft pirjan (meltingly braised lamb shank with potatoes and vegetables) to choose from?