Wing Wa BBQ King looks totally legit. It’s got all the traits of a classic Chinatown winner: a name that is steeped in hyperbole; more Chinese characters than English on its signage; a random invitation to play video lottery; and street-side windows that, if you peer through them, show off the golden, glistening bodies of ducks and pigs hanging in the back of the joint.

The room is drab and a bit grungy. You’ll have little desire to sit here, even just while you wait for your barbecue to go.

As you might have guessed, the Cantonese barbecue and roast meats at Wing Wa are its best work. Period. Not some of its best. Its best. As in, don’t venture off the path. Normally, if there’s a greaseboard featuring specials in Chinese, we insist you go for it, no matter what it is. And you can gloss over the majority. Just point and insist to your friendly but doubtful server that you want it, even if it’s the innards of a sea dragon. But here, you will be likely disappointed by anything but the barbecue.

Ignore the enormous menu and dim sum carts (especially if the restaurant is slow); Wing Wa is the “BBQ King,” remember? Order half a duck, hacked up and served with sticky rice and sweetish sauces. Or nibble juicy pork off its bones and cartilage.

Delicious.