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Fearless Critic restaurant review
Casual restaurant

Daily 10:00am–8:00pm

Bar None
Credit cards Visa, MC
Reservations Not accepted

Old Town Chinatown
18 NW 4th Ave.
Portland, OR
(503) 223-3838

82nd Avenue Area
8220 SE Harrison St.
Portland, OR
(503) 788-6909
Mon–Sat 9:00am–9:00pm
Sun 9:00am–8:30pm

7525 SE Tualatin Valley Hwy.
Hillsboro, OR
(503) 718-7452
Mon–Sat 11:00am–9:00pm
Sun 11:00am–8:30pm
Good Taste Noodle House
Look past the Cantonese-American classics for some healing, hearty fare

This busy little fledgling empire of family-run restaurants is growing perhaps faster than it can handle. Its newest location in Hillsboro is plagued by befuddled staff and sloppy service. Some dishes sit in the window for a good long while, congealing under the heat of the lights and getting good and…seasoned. At the Old Town Chinatown location, lunch crowds pack into crammed-together tables, and everything flows very smoothly. But at off-hours, both the neighborhood and restaurant feel like a depressing ghost town.

Nonetheless, it’s a total Chinese hit, beginning with the great porridges. This is decidedly Cantonese-style congee, like a soupy risotto, best with more strongly flavored meats like tripe and barbecued duck, and even better with a salty, funky preserved egg. Cold and hungry and feeling generally blah? This will fix you right up.

Stay away from General Tso’s and chow mein; these mid-century Chinese-American dishes rear their ugly heads here. But we won’t even rate Good Taste based on these, because even the menu lets you know the main events are the subtle and heavenly soups, which might feature homemade wontons, scallion, and a restrained sheen of chicken fat. Barbecued pork and duck are good, though. But best of all are the soul-warming soups. On a cold night, you’re in good hands.

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