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Fearless Critic restaurant review
Portland
Food
Feel
Price
4.9
7.5
$40
Pan-Asian, Thai
Casual restaurant

Hours
Mon–Thu 11:30am–2:30pm
Mon–Thu 4:30pm–9:00pm
Fri 11:30am–2:30pm
Fri 4:30pm–10:00pm
Sat 12:30pm–3:00pm
Sat 4:30pm–10:00pm
Sun 12:30pm–3:00pm
Sun 4:30pm–9:00pm

Features Date-friendly, outdoor dining, veg-friendly
Bar Beer, wine, liquor
Credit cards Visa, MC, AmEx
Reservations Accepted

Website

Downtown
410 SW Broadway
Portland, OR
(503) 224-8285
Hours
Mon–Thu 6:00am–2:00pm
Mon–Thu 3:00pm–9:30pm
Fri 6:00am–2:00pm
Fri 3:00pm–10:30pm
Sat 6:00am–10:30pm
Sun 6:00am–9:30pm

Northwest Portland
2310 NW Everett St.
Portland, OR
(503) 243-7557

Beaverton
12600 SW Crescent Way
Beaverton, OR
(503) 644-8010
Hours
Mon–Thu 11:30am–2:00pm
Mon–Thu 4:30pm–9:00pm
Fri 11:30am–2:00pm
Fri 4:30pm–10:00pm
Sat noon–3:00pm
Sat 4:30pm–10:00pm
Sun 4:30pm–9:00pm
Typhoon!
A sugary romp through America’s old-school-Asian faves

If Typhoon! sounds like a wacky Broadway musical from the 1960s celebrating the antics of WWII servicemen in the Pacific Islands, you’re not far off. The restaurant, which purports a Thai heritage, is designed around mid-century America’s idea of Southeast Asia. Perhaps most American of all, there’s this crazed focus on providing as many products for consumers as you can fit under one restaurant roof: gift certificates; catering; and even Typhoon!’s own brand of wok.

The egalitarian message spreads to the menus, which is a veritable food court unto itself: “Pacific Rim sandwiches”; “Mongolian BBQ”; bento boxes; Vietnamese noodle soups; Chinese-American take-out classics; and (eep!) sushi—all marketed under different names, but prominently featuring the “Typhoon!” name, so you don’t mistakenly think this came from actual Vietnamese, Japanese, or Chinese restaurants.

And for all the restaurant’s fuss about its Thai executive chef and posted information about the foods of Thailand, renditions are faithful only to trends. They’re trenditions. Larb has none of the ground pork that’s so brilliant on this limey, hot salad—only your choice (yours, the experienced Thai chef) of chicken, tuna, or shrimp. And these are not the tiny, dried shrimp that you could reasonably expect to find in Thai food—they’re big, bland shrimp like you’d find blackened on an Applebee’s Caesar salad. Pad see ew’s noodles are overcooked to the point of soupiness, with the same sweet sauce the kitchen drowns everything in.

Even the “Chef’s Specialties” nervously genuflect before middle-American palates. A duck curry with pineapple and grapes substitutes sweetness for a clove-curry intrigue, masking the flavor of the overcooked (we’re guessing not wild) duck without complementing it.

There are some neat features, like an extensive selection of loose-leaf teas and vegan and gluten-free menus. But in a city with Pok Pok and even Siam Society, why would anyone come here?

The answer may lie in the vast, cozy, and swanky atmospheres of its branches. An even-swankier new conceit has opened downtown called, awkwardly, Bo Restobar. We would have reviewed it but, honestly, we feel like we just did.

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