Fearless Critic restaurant review
Portland
Fenouil
The décor balances warmth and coolness, perhaps better than the kitchen does
Fenouil rises like a glacier against the Pearl District square, all white and glass and silver. Tiny lights in the trees add to the wintry effect. Fireplaces, wood floors, and a tin ceiling try for coziness, but the sheer size of the space—the limestone pillars, the magnificent French tapestry, and…
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Get the 384-page book—it’s an indispensable reference and a great gift—available online or at a Portland-area store.
Or, subscribe to fearlesscritic.com for just $10 per year—the price of a martini—or try it out for $2 per month. You’ll get access to the complete Fearless Critic content online, including more than 1,000 reviews from all Fearless Critic cities, new reviews as they’re written throughout the year, and advanced search features.
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