Caffé Umbria appeared on the scene a few months ago, with all the flash and glamour you’d expect at a major restaurant opening. The thing is, it’s just an Italian coffeeshop. But the hype is no wonder, as the Umbria beans are becoming a Pacific-Northwest-wide phenomenon whose ambition seems almost limitless. The company has gained a lot of traction packaging its Seattle coffee and selling it to local restaurants, making it a recognizable name before it ever opened shop here in the Pearl Street district’s Casey Building.

Inside, the airy space evokes stylish Italian cafés: exposed-brick walls, gleaming glass cases, lightweight cherry-wood tables, standing bars, and high-quality fixtures throughout. It fits the neighborhood, and might be the only coffeehouse in the area that has a modern feel but isn’t part of a huge corporate conglomerate. The lack of free Wi-Fi and big, comfy chairs doesn’t encourage laptop use or loitering the way a lot of other places do, but it is a really pleasant place to converse with a live human (remember those?) and fancy yourself a European.

Indeed, you will find authentic Italian espresso here, pulled properly short with a layer of crema on top—it’s incredible how hard this can be to find. Drip coffee is far from the city’s best, but it’s smoother and less burnt-tasting than Starbucks, anyway. Orders to be consumed on premise come in a nice ceramic cup, accompanied by a small chocolate. On busy days the employees behind the counter frequently answer in Italian. Even the music playing overhead fits the Pearl District vibe, but it’s never too loud. A large plasma TV is in a nook around the corner, and could be a spectacular place to watch Italian soccer.

Dining options are of the usual pedigree: various scones, pastries, homemade panini, pasta salads, and so on. The gelato is cheap and satisfying and comes in a variety of flavors. Beer and wine are also available. Caffé Umbria is classy, but by no means is it stuffy. Should you ever visit Italy, you’ll be glad this is here to satisfy the atmospheric longing you’ll have when you return.