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Dallas Morning News
Fearless Critic restaurant review
Houston
Food
Feel
Price
6.5
5.0
$10
Vietnamese, Sandwiches
Counter service

Hours
Sun–Fri 8:00am–6:00pm

Bar None
Credit cards Visa, MC

Midtown
2905 Travis St.
Houston, TX
(713) 522-7007
Thien An Sandwiches
Get in, get your belly full of hot noodle soup, and get out

The lunchtime service at this busy chow factory is all about turn ‘n’ burn, but asking for help with the menu isn’t out of the question; the staff will happily give suggestions. You may not even much mind the assembly-line feel, noisy clatter, and communal seating, once you dig into your good, cheap meal.

Although the name advertises sandwiches, these don’t compete with the best banh mi on Bellaire; baguettes are, by comparison, rather smooshy and the grilled pork within is wimpy. But the cilantro, jalapeño, and pickled carrots are all right on, so considering they cost $3 a pop, it’s not a terrible idea. Vermicelli dishes tend to be better, especially with a char-grilled, fragrant beef referred to as “Hanoi-style,” as it’s flecked with bright lemongrass and piqued with chilies. Soups are also strong, the broths complex with marrowy meatiness, spicy jalapeño, tangy lemongrass and the exotic undertones of star anise, cinnamon, and cloves. We like the pho, but if you’ve never experienced the tofu-like consistency and savory, gently metallic flavor of pig’s blood, this bun bo Hue is a safe and delicious way to start. And—dare we say?—it’s a terrific, quick hangover cure before work.