There are two Les Givral’s (spelled this way on the signage) Kahves, and one Les Givral’s Sandwich and Café, on Milam. Although owned by different relatives, the three menus and prices are nearly identical, but with distinct atmospheres. But the critical distinction is in the execution. Although the Kahve offers bun, pho, and com tam, what you should order here is a banh mi sandwich. Period. If it’s good rice plates and soup you seek, head to Midtown for the original.

As for these locations, they’re small and modern, with a wall of wooden stakes making a sort of organic art backdrop. There’s a generous BYO option at the Downtown location, but we’re just here for the sandwich, remember? It comes on an ideal, lightly toasted French roll, filled with marinated meat, pickled carrots, onion, and cilantro, with just enough julienned jalapeño for a punch. These are extra tasty when you add the double-secret fried egg option. Always add pâté: its funky iron flavor makes sweet music with the pickled veggies and herbs. The tofu sandwich, with its spongy texture and tangy sauce, is also surprisingly tasty. And by the way, these sandwiches will set you back less than will a beer at most restaurants, making this the perfect cuisine de la récession.