This recently improved old standby is a favorite of some of our panelists, because it does so much so well, across the board. While its pho was forgettable back when it was called “Pho Nga,” it’s now frolicking among the top ten, especially the spicy and subtle chicken version. But it’s rare that you can get good pho and much else, like mindboggling “Phoenix”—half a roast chicken, the meat mixed with the thin, crispy skin. The kicker is the dark sauce that comes with it, bursting with salty soy and spicy ginger. Minced duck with mint and sautéed onions is transcendent and light; and bo luc lac is tender, beefy and seasoned well—a delight with its mint and nuoc mam companions. And there’s a vermicelli here that’s higher in gluten, stickier, and better able to take on the flavors of pickled vegetables than any other.

Nga is pretty big and well known, even in Midtown circles, but it still has some hole-in-the-wall qualities, like a dingy, worn feel, almost glowing yellow from a lack of upkeep. But the service is accommodating and gracious—as long as you make sure they get your order right. As always, it’s a good sign that most of the people that frequent the place are Vietnamese.