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Fearless Critic restaurant review
Portland
Food
Feel
Price
6.0
8.0
$25
American
Casual restaurant

Hours
Sun–Thu 11:00am–11:00pm
Fri–Sat 11:00am–midnight

Features Live music, outdoor dining
Bar Beer, wine, liquor
Credit cards Visa, MC, AmEx
Reservations Not accepted

www.newoldlompoc.com

Northwest Portland
1616 NW 23rd Ave.
Portland, OR
(503) 225-1855
New Old Lompoc
This popular, somewhat historic tavern has slightly better food than you’d expect

The Lompoc Brewery is responsible for some great little beer-drinking establishments around town: Hedge House down on SE Division Street, 5th Quadrant (reviewed in this book), and Oaks Bottom, plus the Sidebar tasting room. The name comes from an old W.C. Fields/Mae West movie in which “Old Lompoc House” was a sort of saloon and hotel. This space was a popular watering hole in the mid century, and you can feel the history in the wainscoting, old-wood-smelling booths, and a residual mural left on the back porch under kitschy plastic grapevines. Picnic benches make up the seating both within and without, and these all get filled up, especially during Tuesday’s trivia nights.

Happy hour is a frequent event here, with food specials from 3–6pm (and again, briefly, from 10–11pm) Tuesdays through Fridays; all weekend, there are drink specials, but not food discounts. Still, it’s not that great a bargain; greasy bar food like Buffalo chicken wings, chicken tenders with mealy fries, and nachos cost around $6, which is what many better happy hour menus are charging for better food. But if you’re here, it’s probably mainly for the vibe and the beer, which has its fans among the hop-and malt-loving drinkers. Lompoc beers come in three distinct varieties: hoppy, hoppier, and hoppy/malty. But there’s an okay draft range here: a chocolatey, creamy stout served on the nitro tap is thick, but too sweet; some rotating guest taps feature lighter regional beers like Widmer Hefeweizen and Caldera Pilsner.

Avoid the cocktails, which lean toward the gimmicky and sweet side; after all, this food is much better suited to beer. There’s a decent French onion soup, some fresh and large salads, and a good array of sandwiches including a lightly fried halibut that’s surprisingly not greasy. Mac and cheese is kind of bland, with pepper jack and cheddar; it’s better with andouille sausage and bell peppers, but still not something we’d ever pay this much for. In fact, all of the food is overpriced for what it is.

Nevertheless, people come to watch games on the TV, carouse with friends in a cool, pubby atmosphere, compete in trivia, and—you know what?—it grows on you.