Country Cat does not try to be an epicurean destination, but rather sets the bar much lower. This is not a restaurant of subtle flavors and cutting-edge techniques. Instead, it welcomes everyone from families to retired folk, and aims to provide good food at reasonable prices. Though the road is sometimes rocky, the Cat has provided some much-needed hospitality in what used to be a somewhat seedy neighborhood.

The space is comfortable, with a large bar that specializes in top-shelf Bourbon drinks (some a bit out of balance), and an excellent, succinct beer list of microbrews on tap (and some macros in bottle). Forget about the perfunctory wine list unless you don’t really care—many of these are cheap, anyway. Much of the seating is booths, a nice touch these days when restaurants tend to maximize every available foot of space. A chef’s table by the open kitchen is a great place to take in a show.

Several mains are grilled: a mixed pork platter with rolled belly, brined chop, and smoked shoulder; molasses-and-hickory-smoked duck legs; or bacon-wrapped trout. The latter looks like it could be on the cover of Time Life’s Foods of America, circa 1966. It’s no longer on the menu, but it was a textbook example of how to prepare this dish: large, fresh, beautifully cleaned fish, cooked expertly moist and then wrapped in generous strips of crispy bacon. In general, Country Cat seems to excel with fish.

Skillet-fried chicken is a total pleasure—a tower of boneless chicken atop a mound of bacon-braised collard greens. The crunchy exterior is right on, with a spicy, vinegary aftertaste. It comes with a large, fluffy sweet-cream biscuit that tastes like butter. And burgers are good too—thick and juicy—with thin, enjoyable onion rings. But beef has come inedibly dry, despite being completely tender (an impressive feat). Desserts are country-inspired (think plum crostata with butterscotch ice cream), but taste pre-fab.

Country Cat has potential, and is a wonderful asset to the neighborhood. It does put out pretty good food at very good prices, but rarely does much more than that.