Taquería Los Gorditos enjoys extreme popularity. We don’t know if it’s because people love the underdoggish food truck; if it’s because of the kitschy Southwestern mural; or if it’s because there’s an attempt to cater to vegans and vegetarians. Whatever it is, we don’t get it. The tacos are just not that good.

Service is absurdly slow, and it can take up to half an hour or more to get your tacos at busy times. We’ve seen the process hundreds of times all over the world: meat on the griddle, meat off the griddle, tortilla, tortilla, onions, cilantro, and here you go. Grab a lime wedge on your way out. It’s a process that normally takes seconds and tastes significantly better. So who has the patience for this sort of wait when it’s not justified by good tacos?

Though it sounds disconcerting, there is something to the soyrizo—it makes up in fat and salt what it lacks in animal protein—but the carne asada tacos are disastrously dry. At one visit, we asked first for lengua, then cabeza, both on the menu...and both were out of stock. Al pastor has been the least of evils, reasonably seasoned, decent, competent, basically average. Tortillas are okay, but no more.

The crowd is made up of families, hipsters, and Joe the Plumbers, all eating on the covered deck. And we want to share their enthusiasm—some of our highest-rated eateries have been food trucks. Would these tacos taste better if they came out in a decent amount of time? Why do all these folks continue to come when there are much better tacos down the road at ¿Por Qué No? We can’t say for sure, although we’re sure soyrizo has something to do with it.