Gilt Club tries to be many things to many people. Its great beverage program and David Lynchish fetish for red drapes make it a popular lounge, and the late-night availability of ambitious dishes makes it a foodie-night-owl hangout. Nice-looking sidewalk tables are a pleasant, low-key place to imbibe cocktails made with homemade bitters and infusions, but you can also head inside for a dramatic, upscale dining experience. The ostentatious décor is a little Vegas-slutty with its undulating lines, a flat-screen TV over the bar, and oversized booths, but we dig the unusual, bold accents such as chandeliers that look like snare drums blooming from a vine.

In fact, the propensity for making diners feel overwhelmed yet wealthy—like an heiress on LSD—is in every move, from the comically enormous menus that pile up at tiny two-tops, to a daunting selection of small plates that combine trendy ingredients with local ones. Most of these are better than you’d expect from a place that is packed at 1am, yet they hardly compete with those at Portland’s more reputable upmarket restaurants.

A beet salad, at one visit, was a little pedestrian, but it came dressed with a superlative pear vinaigrette. French fries are addictive, properly thin, crispy, and well salted. Their accompanying mango-red pepper ketchup was gimmicky and sweet; better is the replacement of roasted garlic aïoli. Meats are generally well executed, like flatiron steak and (seasonal) venison chops, though the latter has come with a Bing cherry sauce that overwhelmed their natural, lightly sweet flavor. Accompaniments are superb, though, like Brussels sprouts and an apple-sweet potato purée. Their burger, made with local beef, is among the best late night choices in Portland, moist and flavorful.

Seafood is sometimes less impressive. Pan-seared Alaskan halibut has come dry and overcooked atop a cold tarragon-French-bean salad with brown butter, and smothered in a dense sprinkling of chopped hazelnuts. It was a melée in which no flavors won. The latest prep is olive-oil poached with a “bouillabaisse” of tomato water, shellfish, garlic fingerling potatoes, leeks, basil oil, and saffron aïoli—another busy dish.

Everything from classic craft cocktails to modern twists are well executed, even if tableside shaking is a misguided practice. A good selection of well-made wines and beers is reasonably priced. Plus, you can indulge in foie gras after most other restaurants have closed. How rich is that?