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Fearless Critic restaurant review
New Haven
Food
Feel
Price
7.3
6.5
$55
Modern
Upmarket restaurant

Hours
Sun–Thu 5:00pm–9:00pm
Fri–Sat 5:00pm–10:00pm

Features Outdoor dining
Bar Beer, wine, liquor
Credit cards Visa, MC, AmEx
Reservations Accepted

www.citrus-ct.com

Milford
56 S. Broad St.
Milford, CT
(203) 877-1138
Citrus
A bizarrely designed restaurant with an interesting menu but little to recommend it at this price range

We’re not sure that anyone really likes or “gets” the design of Citrus. Granted, both the restaurantgoers and those who are there just to grab a drink at the bar (a fairly common practice, actually) must appreciate the variation between rooms, the architectural twists and turns. But other touches are just plain weird, like the ceiling, which looks like congealed gobs of black goo. It makes you wonder if the otherworldly substance will drip down onto your plate, or if Sigourney Weaver is hiding around the corner.

There’s outdoor dining, too, but it’s like a Home Depot garden, and the indoor window seats look out onto little more than cars zooming by. Even the parking lot is strange: have you ever seen a restaurant with main courses in the $30s that sternly declares a two-hour parking limit? What is this, Walgreens?

The food is fine, more or less what you’d expect from a New American place with high-end pretensions. Fried calamari are tender, but not crispy enough; they come with cucumber, lemon, onion, and a side of chipotle aioli. The dish is satisfying in that way that calamari tend to be. Spring rolls are more inspired, well executed if not subtle, with a strange bedfellow—wasabi mashed potatoes. Aren’t we over that fad?

We still don’t really find any sort of generalized citrus theme; most things here are traditional comfort dishes that have been given some sort of modern twist. Take, for instance, the tilapia, which comes with a cilantro-lime gastrique. But $21 for this dud of a fish?

In the end, Citrus underperforms within its genre and price range; and nowhere is this more evident than in the wine list, which reads like a catalog of advertisements in Wine Spectator. Foreign wines like Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Chianti are better values, but however you figure it, your tab at the end of the night is going to be fairly steep.

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