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Dallas Morning News
Fearless Critic restaurant review of the day
DC
Food
Feel
Price
7.8
7.8
$75
Fusion that extends well beyond the reaches of the Atlantic Ocean

Welcome to the fusion funhouse. Sexy Café Atlántico is the most far-reaching outpost of guru Jose Andres’ fiefdom: any nation with Atlantic beaches is fair game for influence. Although South America is most heavily emphasized, Andean countries are not excluded despite their lack of Atlantic Ocean frontage, and the eastern Atlantic—Mediterranean Europe—lends mostly spiritual influence. Dominican mofongo is only as far away as an Argentine parrilla (about 25 minutes, unless it’s a very busy night), and salmon from northern waters is paired with quinoa from… [More]


From the Super ’Stache The underpriced underdogs
DC
Food
Feel
Price
9.0
6.8
$15
You haven’t lived until you’ve tried the fragrant doi (innard terrine) here

Even among rows of refreshingly authentic Vietnamese storefronts in the Eden Center’s Saigon West, Hai Duong is a standout. Like many of its neighbors, the space has no exterior windows or natural light; rather, the front door simply opens onto a corridor of the mall. The décor is pretty cookie-cutter: tables of assorted materials (faux-marble, light wood veneer); cheap chairs; white walls; cheesy Asian music videos on a flat-screen TV; neon signs in primary colors; and, of course, the classic… [More]