Goghee-to-Go is just what Dallas needed: Korean barbecue fused with Tex-Mex, served from a little cinderblock shack. Actually, there’s something oddly alluring about the aroma of grilled meat tinged in sweet marinade, countered by light kimchi and wrapped in a corn or flour tortilla. If a taco, burrito, or bowl fails to hit the right notes, the fault is yours.

Guests pull up and select a meat, a container (taco, burrito, sandwich, or bowl) and other accoutrements—no fuss, though lots of mess if you happen to be eating in a car…or sogginess, if you take the time to drive back to the office while juices soak through every tortilla. This is the downfall of Goghee-to-Go.

The tiny kitchen, as it were, delivers on its promise. But patrons are then left to drip everything all over their office duds and upholstery, cart the order back and risk the aforementioned seepage or sit at one of the picnic tables, experiencing the charm of asphalt, exhaust, and (in summer) triple-digit heat. Oh, well—the shack’s previous occupants dealt with the same problems.