You’ve tried tamales and carne asada many, many times. You know what to expect: warm, murky flavors, sweet margaritas, and swirls of orange grease. That is, you know what to expect until you visit Lanny’s Alta Cocina Mexicana. The cooking is refined, expressing the same sublime sophistication as the snobbiest haute cuisine. Call it “Mod-Mex,” the infusion of mole and masa and other Mexican standards with global flavors.

Chef Lanny Lancarte finds sympathy between pan-Mexican style and the best from around the world. So you may encounter Kobe ceviche, an Asian twist on the bright, fresh Latin American nibbler. He softens staunch, sometimes fiery poblano with European-inspired asparagus cream dressing—and these are just two examples from one compelling menu. Lanny’s is the sort of place where atmosphere fades into the background, nudged there by the cerebral nature of his creations.

Instead of trading anecdotes, movie recommendations, or retelling already timeworn tales, guests tend to ponder, involved more intimately with their dishes than with their companions. Yes, there’s a steady drone, but conversation returns again and again to the experience of each course. Few kitchens exert so much command over their patrons. Lanny’s Alta Cocina Mexican is more than the finest Mexican restaurant in the Dallas-Fort Worth area. It’s one of the finest restaurants.