The best Tex-Mex in Dallas is always hotly debated among the locals. Some prefer complimentary bean soup and classic Tex-Mex combinations at humble Herrera’s. Others go for the semi-flashy fare and the titillating see-and-be-seen scene at Mi Cocina. But Mi Cocina and its sex appeal wouldn’t exist without Mia’s. That’s because Mi Cocina founder Mico Rodriguez comes from the family who established Mia’s, a Dallas Tex-Mex institution.

The Lemmon Avenue mainstay has undergone a few facelifts—and changed addresses—since Ana and Butch Enriquez opened the joint in 1981. Renovations included a festive paint job and fancier graphics on the menu. Mia’s is famous for “Butch’s Original Brisket Tacos”—savory, tender meat tucked inside corn or flour tortillas, made all the better when gussied up with a wedge of avocado—and while other Tex-Mex spots offer this delicacy, Mia’s does it the best.

Equally famous are Tuesday-night homemade chiles rellenos. Although both of these dishes have a fanatic following, we return again and again for a simple bowl of tortilla soup, the clean-tasting broth swimming with chunks of chicken, crisp tortilla strips, melting white cheese, avocado, and flecks of cilantro. Another homey treat that has us hooked is “Lola’s Special:” one chalupa spread with refried beans and topped with ribbons of fresh lettuce, tomato, and shreds of cheddar; one bathed in mild and creamy queso; and the last dolloped with freshly made guacamole.