If you like green-tea desserts, this is only bakery to visit. Hiroki Inoue’s signature green tea tiramisù is the definitive word on matcha-infused sweets.

As that creation shows, Hiroki blends Japanese and European influences. A soufflé cheesecake with a chiffon bottom and apricot glaze, for example, eschews the rich, creamy quality of a New York-style cheesecake, and is instead light and fluffy and not too sweet—a quality that resonates with Hiroki’s Japanese customers. There are plenty of éclairs, biscotti, tarts, and New York-style cheesecakes in the pastry case, too. (The sweetness in all of these is generally more subtle than at, say, an Italian or a French bakery.) Beyond green tea, other Japanese ingredients (like kobacha, a type of squash) make their way into cakes and muffins.

The bakery is comfortable enough for a sit-down, but not really compelling enough for a long stay, especially on weekends around brunchtime, when the lines are long.