Anita Ross paid her dues (and honed her skills) slinging crêpes at farmers’ markets. And although you can still find mobile versions of her crêperie at markets and events, Ross now maintains a simple sit-down café with an expanded menu.

Unsurprisingly, crêpes are the best thing coming out of this kitchen, and the best among these are the sweet varieties, like an ethereal lemon sugar crêpe. But this kitchen is also competent with other comfort-food dishes like complex and robust soups, including a French onion with lots of stringy Comté. And like most Northwest chefs, Ross knows how to give French standards a little seasonal flare: seared duck breast might come with a local cherry compote.

There’s nothing too daring or revelatory about Anita’s, and there’s better French to be had downtown and in Capitol Hill, but this is definitely the best crêpe north of the canal. Anita’s is in the not-so-charming part of Fremont/Ballard, along depressing Leary Way, in a newer commercial building of the kind that looks like a chiropractor’s office no matter what you do with it. But the interior is well dressed, with wood floors, butcher’s-block tables, and somewhat incongruous (but comfy) brown leather chairs.