Harvest Vine’s only serious competition in the arena of creative Spanish tapas, Olivar gains the slight advantage for consistency—and for providing a space that’s actually pleasant to dine in.

Olivar is a beautiful restaurant. It’s in the Loveless Building, a Tudor country manor in the midst of Capitol Hill. The interior is fairly simple but for one unique embellishment: dreamy Art Nouveau murals (remnants of a former restaurant that used to occupy the space) that depict a story by Alexander Pushkin.

Chef Philippe Thomelin spent as much time in Spain as he did in his home of France, and both countries are represented on a menu that is both creative and robust. For example, Serrano ham comes with Mahón gougères instead of Spanish cheese. Even dishes with the most basic of descriptions will likely be a complex blend of flavors; “Brussels sprouts” are halved, stuffed, roasted, and served with duck confit and a tomato-herb compote.

The restaurant isn’t cheap, but in the spirit of the comfortable neighborhood restaurants in France and Spain that it’s trying to imitate, Olivar has a very affordable wine list—not particularly deep, but with plenty of good pairings.