Even among demanding food snobs, Pepino’s is a regular standby for a cheap weeknight meal. They won’t hesitate to tell you (the food snobs, not the people at Pepino’s) that Portland’s Mexican scene is sorely lacking, which makes the food here seem more exceptional than it might be in, say, Los Angeles. In other words, this is one of the better options in town, which isn’t saying a lot.

Part of that success is owed to the fresh flavors of its Cal-Mex menu, particularly grilled fish tacos with crunchy cabbage, cucumbers, and a lightly spicy chipotle mayonnaise. But the Tex-Mex here won’t be winning over any Lone Star transplants (barbecue is more often a successful venture up here); enchiladas taste sort of thawed out and mass produced.

For vegetarians, little is impressive. Veggie burritos are flavorless, their flavor-poor beans failing to make up for the lack of lardy depth. They’re also plagued with a wateriness that becomes more unmanageable the more vegetables are involved. Meat burritos are full of intensely flavored sauces, some of which are pretty delicious, albeit too sweet (the name “Sweet Tequila” kind of gives it away). But putting barbecue sauce on a burrito just reminds us of what Wolfgang Puck did to pizza in the 1990s. If you like those, you’ll dig this.

Stick to the simpler, more authentic dishes like rotisserie chicken with salsa fresca. The skin is flavorful and crispy, with sometimes dry but often good meat inside. And for the love of dios, please avoid the whole-wheat tortilla. If the flour tortillas are somewhat dry and gummy, the whole-wheat ones taste industrial and cardboardy.

The atmosphere is certainly festive, with the bright colors and relative dinginess of a more promising Mexican eatery. There are some beers on draft that go above and beyond the typical Mexican selection, including a few locals. But no margaritas?

For better authentic food, head around the corner to ¿Por Qué No? or better yet, a taco truck. But if you have to get your sweet Thai burrito on, then this is your place.